Where To Stay In Florence, Italy By Neighborhood

Every neighborhood in Florence, Italy, offers something different, but the city is compact, so it’s not about staying near the things you want to do/see. Where to stay in Florence, Italy, depends on what vibe you’re going for, and you should start by picking one of the 6 most desirable neighborhoods in Florence, Italy. 

Florence is a very walkable city; In 2024, Insider Monkey named it the most walkable city in the world! Most of the main attractions are within a .5 mile radius. If you stay on the fringes of the historic center, you will get a more local feel. In this post, we’re going to break down the 6 most desirable neighborhoods in Florence, Italy, and why to stay in each. Once you know what neighborhood you want to stay in and are ready to book your room, please see our recommendations in our post “The Best Hotels in Florence, Italy by neighborhood.”

Skip to a neighborhood to stay in Florence, Italy:

• Oltrarno (Santo Spirito and San Frediano) is great for foodies and families
• Santa Croce for nightlife and close proximity to many of Florence’s attractions. Great for first-time visitors
• Sant’Ambrogio is also good for foodies
• San Lorenzo/San Marco for families and lower prices
• San Giovanni for proximity to sights and attractions
• San Niccolò for a quieter neighborhood with plenty of restaurants and wine bars (great for families too)
• Santa Maria Novella for quick access to transportation and slightly lower prices
• FAQs about where to stay in Florence, Italy by neighborhood

Florence is much bigger than just the city center, but for this post, we are going to focus primarily on the historic center and adjoining neighborhoods. We’ll take a look at 1) Oltrarno (Santo Spirito/San Frediano), 2) Santa Croce/Sant’Ambrogio, 3) San Lorenzo/San Marco, 4) San Giovanni (historic center), 5) San Niccolò, and 6) Santa Maria Novella.

Map of the most desirable neighborhoods in Florence, Italy. Oltrarno: Santo Spirito (red outline) San Frediano (burnt orange outline), Santa Croce (orange outline), Sant’Ambrogio (grey outline), San Lorenzo (blue outline), San Marco (light blue outline), San Giovanni (historic center, purple outline), San Niccolò (green outline), and Santa Maria Novella (black outline in the upper left corner).

Oltrarno (Santo Spirito & San Frediano): Where to stay in Florence, Italy

Oltrarno: Best for a local vibe, foodies, boutique and luxury hotels

Staying in the Oltrarno has quickly become our favorite area to stay in Florence. Oltrarno literally means the other Arno, or the other side of the Arno (river). The Oltrarno includes 3 neighborhoods: Santo Spirito, San Frediano, and San Niccolò. We’ve kept San Niccolò separate because it has a slightly different vibe. Whereas Santo Spirito and San Frediano sort of bleed into each other. 

In the Santo Spirito and San Frediano neighborhoods, you’ll find boutique hotels, crafts & design shops, boutique clothing stores, family-run osterias, wine bars, and excellent gelaterias. The Oltrarno can be great for families since the crowds are thinner than across the river.

From the Oltrarno, you’re only about a 15-20-minute walk from the Duomo. Get breakfast or lunch on the way, and you’ll be there in no time. 

Map showing Santo Spirito and San Frediano neighborhoods of Florence (2 of 3 neighborhoods in the Oltrarno).

Staying in either Santo Spirito or San Frediano means there will be no shortage of restaurants, wine bars, and great spots for aperitivo in the evening. Both neighborhoods are still lively, but they aren’t as crowded as the historic center (San Giovanni). Borgo San Frediano is a great street to find an aperitif and dinner. The San Frediano neighborhood was named one of the coolest neighborhoods in the world by Lonely Planet, so it’s certainly worth checking out. This is a genuine neighborhood where you can see real Italian life unfold. You’ll find family-run restaurants, artisan gelaterias, and craft-cocktail bars.

Chiesa Santo Spirito in the Oltrarno, Florence, Italy

In the Santo Spirito neighborhood, the Piazza Santo Spirito is a popular place to go in the evening for aperitivo or dinner. We find a mix of locals and students in the Piazza Santo Spirito; it has a social and welcoming atmosphere. If you stay in either of these neighborhoods, explore a little and walk away from the river; if you get just past Borgo San Frediano or Piazza Santo Spirito, you’ll find all the restaurants that the locals frequent.

A few of our favorite places in the Oltrarno:

• Wine bar: Le Volpi e L’uva has some of the best crostone to pair with wines from all over; drink it by the bottle or the glass, and you won’t be disappointed. We’ve been told that every member of the staff tastes every wine that they have, and they won’t sell a wine unless every staff member approves it! The wine bar is now offering private tastings; you have to contact them for details; we believe it’s a minimum of 6 or 8 people.
• Wine tasting bar:  Enoteca Pitti Gola e Cantina offers wine by the glass or bottle, but you can also do a tasting (or a flight). Pair it with some of their excellent dishes for an afternoon to remember. This is located directly across the street from Pitti Palace. Call ahead to make a reservation and arrange a tasting paired with food.
• Tuscan dishes: Trattoria 4 Leoni was recommended to Candace once on a solo trip, while sitting at the bar at Le Volpi e L’uva. The woman said it was a second-hand recommendation from Giada De Laurentiis and to get the pear fiocchetti in taleggio sauce with asparagus. Fiocchetti are little pasta sacks that they fill with the pear. The dish was amazing, and we’ve returned here a few times. The restaurant also has a new wine bar on the other side of the small piazza that it sits on. Reservations are strongly recommended for Trattoria 4 Leoni.
• Traditional pasta, seafood, and meat: Il Guscio has a comfortable but polished space, and the food is excellent. Traditional dishes made with modern recipes. The restaurant is small, so make a reservation before you go and go hungry because you’re going to want to order from each menu (antipasti, primi, secondi, contorni, vini, and dolci).
• Traditional food at an old establishment: Trattoria Da Ginone 1949 is a restaurant that we discovered while wandering around looking for a place for lunch because the first spot we went to was full and the second only took cash. We ended up at Trattoria Da Ginone, and we were NOT disappointed. As soon as we sat down, we knew we were at a local’s spot. As the name indicates, the restaurant has been there since 1949, and for good reason! Their food is prepared with care; you can taste all of the ingredients as they dance on your tongue. We had the pappardelle with wild boar and the spaghetti chitarra with white rabbit and fennel ragu. We know rabbit is something that most Americans are afraid to try, but we promise that it might surprise you.
• Breakfast: Ditta Artigianale. You can get actual breakfast here, not just pastries and espresso, but they have that too. We had pancakes that made us so happy.

*Check back periodically; every time we go to Florence, we try to go to another restaurant or wine bar that we haven’t been to yet in the Oltrarno.

See our recommended hotels in the Oltrarno neighborhood

Santa Croce/Sant’Ambrogio: Where to stay in Florence, Italy

Santa Croce: Best for nightlife

Sant’Ambrogio: Best for foodies on a budget

Our second favorite neighborhood to stay in is the Santa Croce neighborhood. The Santa Croce neighborhood is a working-class neighborhood with a lively nightlife, plenty of leather shops, and the Sant’Ambrogio market. Yes, the market is not in the neighborhood of the same name. Santa Croce is good for first-time visitors and anyone interested in some nightlife while they are in the city of Florence. 

Map showing Florence neighborhoods: Santa Croce, Sant’Ambrogio, and San Giovanni (historic center).

The Santa Croce is a stone’s throw from the Duomo and Ponte Vecchio. The main attraction in the Santa Croce neighborhood is the Basilica di Santa Croce. The basilica is known as The Temple of the Italian Glories; it is where many of the Italian greats are entombed (Michelangelo, Galileo, and Machiavelli among them). Dante Alighieri, the Italian poet, writer, and philosopher famous for his Divine Comedy, is paid tribute with a cenotaph inside the basilica. A cenotaph is basically a tomb without the body; he died in exile in Ravenna and was buried there. Additionally, there is a large statue of him in front of the basilica.

Located in the Santa Croce neighborhood is Casa Buonarroti (as in Michelangelo Buonarroti). Although Michelangelo purchased the home, he never lived in it (he was busy in Rome painting the Sistine Chapel). Michelangelo’s great-nephew (Michelangelo Buonarroti the Younger) turned the palazzo into a space that paid tribute to his uncle. Today you’ll find original works by Michelangelo, including his Madonna of the Stairs and the Battle of the Centaurs.

The Sant’Ambrogio neighborhood is north of the Santa Croce neighborhood and borders the Sant’Ambrogio market. This neighborhood is authentic Florentine and has fewer crowds than the historic center and Santa Croce neighborhood. The neighborhood offers traditional trattorias at affordable prices, artisan workshops, and some nightlife. This is a good choice for foodies who are looking to cut costs on dining and accommodations.

Our favorite spots in the Santa Croce neighborhood:

• Breakfast, pasta, or pizza: Italians are known to have a small breakfast, a pastry, and an espresso or cappuccino. If the small Italian breakfast is what you’re looking for, be sure to check out Finisterrae; it’s right by the Basilica di Santa Croce. We also like going here for lunch to have pizza and spritz in the piazza.
• Substantial breakfast: If you want a more substantial breakfast, check out Le Vespe Cafe. It’s small, so we recommend arriving early to make sure you get a table. At Le Vespe, you’ll find pancakes, French toast, eggs, bacon, potatoes, avocado toast, and more!
• Classic Tuscan dishes: La Buchetta is a great choice for lunch or dinner. Try the Angels & Demons gnocchi or the tagliatelle pasta with wild boar. We also love their Peposo all’Impruneta, a red wine beef stew served over polenta or mashed potatoes. It is not always on the menu, so you’re in for a treat if they have it that day. La Buchetta literally means “little hole” and refers to the famous wine windows, and this location has one. They have another location close by, in the historic center. Reservations aren’t required, but they are strongly recommended.
• Cosy wine bar in the Sant’Ambrogio neighborhood: Vineria Sonora is very welcoming and has everything you need: classic reds and whites, sparkling wines, orange wines, funky natural wines, local wines, and rosés. Pair these with some of their crostone, small plates, or snacks from the kitchen, and you’ve got the perfect aperitivo/evening snack, light dinner, or late-night snack (open Wed-Sun 5 pm – 1 am). This is not just a wine bar; they are also a wine shop, so get something special to take with you! The staff knows their wine and food, so ask for a wine or pairing suggestion. We really enjoy the vibe here and the music; they mix up the music- some nights it’s old-school on vinyl, and other nights it’s DJ sets that could be electronic music or remixed classic rock.

See our recommended hotels in the Santa Croce neighborhood

San Lorenzo/San Marco: Where to stay in Florence, Italy

San Lorenzo/San Marco: Best for savings and proximity to attractions

San Lorenzo and San Marco are great neighborhoods for first-time visitors because they are easy to navigate, include some of what you’ll want to see while you’re there, and it’s quick to get to the train station or the Duomo from them. These neighborhoods are considered less desirable than other neighborhoods because they lack some of the charm. That being said, these are popular neighborhoods among tourists and students because you can save money and you’re a short walk from the “charm” that’s missing. Others love the authenticity of these neighborhoods. 

Map of San Lorenzo and San Marco neighborhoods, also showing Sant’Ambrogio and San Giovanni (historic center) neighborhoods.

We should note that while these neighborhoods lack charm, they are NOT considered unsafe. In San Lorenzo, you have the Basilica di San Lorenzo, the central market, and Palazzo Medici Riccardi. In San Marco, you have the Accademia (where the statue of David is). Either of these would be great neighborhoods to stay in if you have an early tour at the Accademia or the Duomo.

If you stay in one of these neighborhoods, make sure you visit the central market. The ground floor is where all the merchants sell their goods until 2 pm (closed on Sundays). Upstairs is essentially a food hall with flavors from all over; they are open every day from 9 or 10 am until 11 pm or midnight. 

Restaurant recommendation in the neighborhood:

• Italian dishes, pizza, and a Seasonal menu: Ristorante SimBIOsi is in the center of the two neighborhoods, where San Lorenzo and San Marco meet. This restaurant has a seasonal menu created with high-quality ingredients and boasts a wine list with over 400 organic wines. SimBIOsi has sort of taken over the corner of Via De’ Ginori where it meets Via Guelfa. The restaurant is sandwiched between their organic pizza restaurant and cafe; across the street, they have a gluten-free restaurant too. 

See our recommended hotels in the San Lorenzo/San Marco neighborhood

San Giovanni (Historic Center): Where to stay in Florence, Italy

The historic center (San Giovanni): Best for proximity to attractions and luxury hotels

The San Giovanni neighborhood is probably what most people think of when they think of the historic center in Florence. San Giovanni stretches from the Duomo to the river and is sandwiched between the Santa Croce and Santa Maria Novella neighborhoods. This is the heart of Florence; it’s where you’ll find the Uffizi Gallery, the Palazzo Vecchio, Ponte Vecchio, Bargello Museum, Piazza della Signoria, and Piazza della Repubblica. 

Map of the San Giovanni neighborhood (historical center) in Florence, Italy

Stay in San Giovanni for proximity; as soon as you step out in the morning, you are probably minutes from where you are going. Keep in mind that this is probably the most heavily touristic part of the city, and it can be crowded year-round. This doesn’t mean that there aren’t good restaurants in the neighborhood; it just means that there are a lot that cater to tourists and may be more expensive or a bit less authentic than some of the older trattorias and osterias. The first few times we went to Florence, we stayed in this neighborhood and enjoyed it. There are restaurants, cafes, panini shops, and gelaterias everywhere. This is an excellent area to stay in during the holidays because it’s decorated for the holidays; you get that holiday magic feeling with fewer crowds.

Street decorated for Christmas in the historic center of Florence, Italy

Some of our favorite places to eat and drink in San Giovanni (historic center):

• Panini: Panini Toscani is right behind the Duomo; grab a panino and a glass of wine and enjoy the view. This is a great option if you are doing the Brunelleschi Pass for the Duomo and want lunch between the 5 Duomo sites you have access to. 
• Steak: Ristorante Steakhouse Auditore is the perfect location for pleasing different tastes. Being a bracceria (steakhouse), you can get the famous bistecca fiorentina here, but they also have amazing pasta dishes, antipasti, even salad and chicken dishes.
• Tuscan dishes and a large wine list: La Buchetta is a great choice for lunch or dinner. Try the Angels & Demons gnocchi or the tagliatelle pasta with wild boar. We also love their Peposo all’Impruneta, a red wine beef stew served over polenta or mashed potatoes. It is not always on the menu, so you’re in for a treat if they have it that day. They have another location close by, in the Santa Croce neighborhood. Reservations aren’t required, but they are strongly recommended.
• Chinese food: we know, we know, you should eat Italian in Italy, but we live here, and sometimes we want something different. Pine&Apple is by far the best Chinese food we’ve had in Italy. 
• Honorable mention: Strozzi Bistrò at Palazzo Strozzi is a great place to get a drink and a snack, or lunch before visiting the gallery at Palazzo Strozzi. 

See our recommended hotels in the San Giovanni neighborhood (historic center)

San Niccolò: Where to stay in Florence, Italy

San Niccolò: Best for views and fewer crowds

San Niccolò is across the river from the Santa Croce neighborhood. San Niccolò offers plenty of lunch, dinner, and aperitivo options. You can enjoy Piazzale Michelangelo for great views of the city. On one side of Piazzale Michelangelo, there is a Rose garden, and it’s a popular place to enjoy a picnic or sunset when the weather is nice.

Map of the San Niccolò neighborhood, Florence, Italy

On the opposite side of the Piazzale Michelangelo, you’ll find Giardino dell’Iris, a garden full of irises that is only open during their blooming season for about 25 days (beginning in late April). Inside the San Niccolò neighborhood is one of our favorite gardens in Florence, Giardino Bardini; this is where we think the best views of the city are. This neighborhood is a great choice if you’re looking for something a bit quieter and don’t mind being just a few minutes further from all the action (remember, Florence is super walkable and compact).

View from Piazzale Michelangelo in the San Niccolò neighborhood, Florence, Italy

Food & drink recommendations in San Niccolò:

• Cocktails and Ischian-inspired tapas: Non Sai is owned by a couple from Ischia, and their menu shows their pride. Stop in for snacks and cocktails (they also have non-alcoholic cocktails).
• Fine dining: Saporium Firenze is a fine dining restaurant serving elevated Italian cuisine and Tuscan wines in an opulent setting. The menu is a tasting menu; you have a few different prix fixe menus to choose from (including vegetarian, fish, or meat), or you can create one “à la carte.” You also have the option to enhance the experience with a wine pairing for each dish. The restaurant has its own farm, which provides tasty vegetables, herbs, citrus, chicken, and even honey for the restaurant (a true farm-to-fork restaurant). This restaurant has a Michelin star, so make a reservation if you want to enjoy dinner here. 
• Swanky lounge: Saporium Lounge is attached to Saporium Firenze, and they offer the same dedication to their cocktails and tapas as their restaurant menu, using organic ingredients from their farm. The upscale lounge is known for its craft cocktails and contemporary tapas. Enjoy an aperitivo here or stay for an evening of cocktails and small bites. Fancy cocktail with some caviar on the side, anyone? Yes, they also have a caviar menu!
• Exceptional food & a reasonable price: Zeb gastrorestaurant was recognized by the Michelin Guide as a Bib Gourmand; this means that it is reasonably priced and has great food. We find Bib Gourmand restaurants to always be approachable. That and the price point are probably the biggest differences between most Bib Gourmand restaurants and a Michelin-starred restaurant. Zeb offers traditional cuisine that you’ll remember forever. Stop in for lunch or dinner after visiting the Piazzale Michelangelo. Reservations are only accepted by phone.

See our recommended hotels in the San Niccolò neighborhood

Santa Maria Novella: Where to stay in Florence, Italy

Santa Maria Novella: Best for convenience and access to transportation

Santa Maria Novella is a large neighborhood; for the purposes of this post, we are focusing on the area surrounding the train station and lining the San Giovanni and San Lorenzo neighborhoods. Staying near the train station can be convenient, especially if you need to take the T2 to the airport. This is also an excellent choice if Florence is your hub and you plan to take the train out of town a couple of times.

Map of the Santa Maria Novella neighborhood, Florence, Italy

That being said, it’s not the most charming neighborhood, but you could save some money by staying in the area. We’ve stayed in this neighborhood just across the street from the San Giovanni Neighborhood. This was a good location because it was a straight shot over to the Duomo and then to the train station when we were leaving.

Piazza Santa Maria Novella, Florence, Italy

Recommendations in the Santa Maria Novella neighborhood:

• Espresso and a pastry: Caffè dei Fossi is a convenient option for breakfast or an afternoon shot of espresso if you are in the area. You can also grab a quick pre-made panini. We’ve put this here because the pastries are great and so are the espresso drinks, but be warned that it is one of the pricier cafes in the area. 
• Pizza and traditional Tuscan dishes: Trattoria Pizzeria Nerone Firenze. We went there for pizza once, and it was pretty good. We were seated by the kitchen, and we hope to make it back one day to try more of the items on the menu because they all looked so good as they left the kitchen!
• Classic Tuscan dishes and seasonal specialties: Trattoria Marione is one of those local spots that isn’t a secret anymore – so make a reservation. We did not make a reservation, so they sent us to their other location, Trattoria Marione al Trebbio, where we were able to get probably the last table, which was in a heavily trafficked part of the restaurant and probably shouldn’t be there, but we were happy to have a table. The food was great and worth the oddly placed table. They also own a wine bar across the street from this second location 
• Irish pub: The Fiddler’s Elbow Irish Pub. Yes, we know this isn’t Italian, but sometimes you just want a pub, and there’s an Irish pub just about everywhere in the world; you just have to know where to look. We like a cold cider from time to time, but it’s hard to find in Italy (apart from big cities with Irish pubs). We don’t go every time we are in Florence, but anytime we want a cold cider, we do (it’s Magner’s on tap). The pub has a lot of taps with local and foreign beers, and they serve traditional cocktails. We haven’t eaten here, but they do have a menu. We were once in Florence on St. Patrick’s Day and went to several Irish pubs before returning to the Fiddler’s Elbow after deciding that it’s still our favorite Irish pub in Florence. 

See our recommended hotels in the Santa Maria Novella neighborhood

We hope our guide on where to stay in Florence, Italy by neighborhood has helped you match your desired vibe with the right neighborhood for your visit to Florence. If you’re looking for accommodation recommendations, we’ve got you covered. Check out our post on the Best Hotels in Florence, Italy by neighborhood for recommendations by neighborhood.

If you’re feeling a bit overwhelmed trying to plan your trip, we can help. Have an expert (that’s us) do the research, offer you options, build your custom itinerary, and even save you time with secure bookings (on your behalf) with our custom travel planning services. Still want to plan your trip but need somewhere to start? Our rough itinerary services will help you organize your trip so you can book with confidence. Need some resources so you can plan your trip completely on your own? Check out our favorite resources to get started.

We’d like to hear from you; have you stayed in any of these neighborhoods? Tell us in the comments what your favorite restaurant, pizzeria, gelateria, cafe, or wine bar was!

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